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Tricky one! We will keep it as concise as possible.
If you are using under a 2.3 tyre, we suggest the 35mm rim maximum. A 35mm allows the widest range of tyre choice. A 2.2 tyre is best on a 30mm. If you are rolling tyres off rims and burping tyres, us a 35mm. If you are not. then save the weight on the rim and go a 30mm.
If you are a heavier rider (over 90kg kitted up) You will roll tyres easier in corners, a 41mm rim will help. If you are lighter than say 60kg. Then the extra traction of the larger rims and tyres may be overkill and that traction has a price...Rolling resistance! On all but loose dirt, so your average hardpack trail, a fat tyre and rim will be a bit faster to decelerate, and slower to accelerate. So beware of overkill!!
Also we suggest you get the best of both worlds, mix up your rim sizes. a 30mm rear, 35mm front (or a 41 front/35mm rear) will give you the option to run a big front for maximum braking and cornering traction, but a narrower rear for better climbing acceleration.
If you want to save weight then go narrower, both the rim and appropriate tyre will be lighter. Still note that a 400g Zelvy rim will still outperform a 400g alloy rim, purely from stiffness enabling better precision and acceleration out of corners.
The final note is tyre protection of the rim. If you live in rocky knar. then beware of rock ninjas that can stab/grab into the side of the rim as the tyre grabs on the rock and flicks itself off sideways, especially the rear.
We believe straight pull spokes advantages do not outweigh the disadvantages. Especially on a carbon rim, it is the nipple to spoke area that sees most of the stress fatigue rather than the J bend. We also use spokes with oversized forged J bend area. Best news is when you break a straight pull spoke you have a good chance of finding a replacement.
Quality of build is important, an aluminium nipple doesn't save much weight, and can crack and fatigue. We are all for saving weight, but not at the expense of quality.
All our wheels are built by hand at our Worldwide build centres.
We prototype all, and manufacture some components in Australia, otherwise rims and handlebars are made in Asia. Why? Yes, it is cheaper to manufacture over there, but also our facility already has the most state of the art composite manufacturing and testing facilities in the world, with a great team of pure artisans who gladly work hard and produce our product to the highest quality. There is no composites facility in Australia with the technology, machinery and know-how that our Asian facility has, think about that before you buy a rim, is it made in a state of the art facility, or someone's back yard?!.
All our rims are made to our specification, then shipped to our build centres where they are inspected, finished, and built by hand by our amazing team of wheel builders.
Compare the price. Now for that price all we ask is to compare the specification of the wheel. Apart from our awesome Zelvy rim designed and developed in house and ridden by some of the best riders in the world; compare these things:
The hub: Our builds use name brand hubs that are manufactured by companies that are passionate about making the best hubs in the world. Other wheels source their hubs from an OEM manufacturing company that can manufacture a hub with your name on it. Nothing wrong with that, but hardly a piece of bling jewellery work of art hub. Our equivalent wheel build would be with a FUNN hub.
The Spokes and nipples: We use quality spokes from the best manufacturers in the world. With locking brass nipples. Our spokes feature Patented Triple Butted cold forging saving 30% weight than a conventional spoke without sacrificing strength. Our nipples are brass
The rim profile: 2016 sees a newly developed rim well profile. Easy to mount the tyre, and even easier to seal. Hand pump to 30psi and you are done. Our new rim profile makes tubeless setup so simple you will want to pull the tyre off and do it again just for fun!
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A wise man once said "it is better to ask for forgiveness than for permission. By the wheels, they are worth the turmoil at home, besides, you will be out riding anyway!!, But the "other half" rides too? Lucky we offer a 10% discount on your second set of wheels then hey ;)
Please contact us if you need more excuses or a "safety report" on your current wheelset, perhaps a re-worded invoice :)
Negative, They break differently than an alloy rim. Aluminium is soft, chances are if you damage your carbon Zelvy rim, then you would have destroyed an alloy one long ago.
Sure, you can make an aluminium rim really light, it will also be really weak, really flexible, and performance will be pretty ordinary (to say it nice). A carbon rim is ridiculously strong! Even weight for weight, the Zelvy carbon wheel will accelerate, brake and corner so much better than the lightweight noodle alloy "equivilent" (we use this term loosely!)
It isn't all about the weight. It is about the performance and reliability as well.
20/24/28 spoke wheel? No thanks, we ride our wheels, in tough conditions, 1 broken spoke on a 20 or 24 spoke MTB wheel can be more disastrous than your partner finding out what you paid for your new bike!
Tiny skinny rim? Wider is better, we all know that, a narrower rim is lighter, but it isn't faster!
If the rim is the same width, and they have 32 spokes as well, but they are still lighter? Find out the rim weight and compare. If the rim is lighter then question the reliability and performance. Will it break too easily or loose it's stiffness and precision?
No. If you are a heavier rider we suggest the wider rims and match this with a wider tyre for better corner support, but otherwise.. Go for it! Our Carbon rims are built for strength, and un-laced if you sat on an alloy rim it would more likely collapse. Not so with a Zelvy carbon rim.